Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and travelers alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it joins a international community of cities urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city is little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially defined its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these stories and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
